Ephemera

Selection of hats of Levantine Smyrna

Hats in new colours and different models. Whether domed, felt hats, Tyroleans, top-hats ... Also for men and boys caps, ties, canes, brushes and various products… The advertisement of Grande Chapellerie Spavera, which was included in the trade guide of Smyrna in 1893, with these words.

From the commercial guides we are informed from where the Levantine ladies of the time went to buy their hats, where they sought the latest models and where to repair or iron them.

In the 1881 trade and industrial yearbook (Indicateur Oriental) we encounter Antoine Calicich (fabrique de chapeaux en soie [silk] et en feutre), Z. Kirikopoulo and Alphonse Solari (fabrique de chapeaux en feutre - a felt hatmaker ).

In the Izmir merchants guide of 1893 (Annuaire des Commerçants), the list is longer: J. Pierre Armao (Chapellerie Elégante & High Life, chapeaux et casquettes, bonnets, cravates et chaussettes, cannes, parapluies, boutons, faux-cols, manchettes, etc.), André Damiano, D.lles Jocpas (Maison de confection de chapeaux en tous genres, articles de mode, plumes et corsets), Jean Lambidhis, Em. Levendacos, Etienne Livorness, C. Nicolaidhis, Joseph Nastri, Nicolas Spavera (Grande Chapellerie), C. Tozzi (Fabrique), N. Valsamis, Vlaico (fabricant de chapeaux pour dames).

Hat repairers (Réparateurs de chapeaux) were Y. Artinakis, Joseph Armao and Antoine Vlacchovich.

In the 1894 issue of this guide, Coutsouca et Filippouci on Frank Street is added to this list. In the 1895 edition, Arghiraki Alex. Together with et Co., Orosdi-Back and Xenopoulo, Au Bon Marché and Ortigues Frères de Philémond (fabricant), one of Smyrna’s major stores, participate in the competition. In the 1896 issue of the same guide, hat presser P. Athinaki, Esther Piche (Maison fondée en 1844, haute nouveauté de chapeaux pour Dames, Demoiselles et Fillettes), Mary Qucirolo (mode de chapeaux) and M. Zecchini are also present.

In the 1909 Oriental Yearbook (Annuaire Oriental), Polycarpe Collaro and Vincenzo Ferroni join these names, and in the Oriental Yearbook of 1929, Antoine Pasquale in the Rue Bedesten (Chapellerie de Luxe) is added.

In 1926, in the Commercial and Economic directory of Izmir, as well as a variety of cap manufacturers, Aperio is noted, located in the Saman Pier area, Michel P. Astlick who sells top hats for ceremonies, fedora, Panama hats for the summer and a variety o European caps and the Italian hatter Jozef Dezi (Giuseppe Desii) is noted. The Desii advert records:

“The manufacture of ladies hats following the latest fashion trends and men’s hats are molded", located at Hükümet Caddesi Milli Sinema Beyler Sokağı ...”

Giuseppe Desii is the father of the hatter M. Cesare Desii, whom many may still remember or at least have heard of. M. Cesare Desii’s shop was in the vicinity of Hisar Mosque in Kemeraltı. M. Desii also made the hats of the Italian school uniforms. In 1970, the shop closed its shutters for good ...

A bowler hat from Smyrna by an Antoine Pasquale, whose shop: Raposo was located at No:48 on Yol Bedesten, Smyrne - below the inside emblem within this hat - images courtesy of Andrew Simes.

1893 advert for Grande Chapellerie Spavera

1895 advert for Ortigues Frères de Philémond

Adverts from 1896 for the hat shops of Piche ve Livorness

The shop frontt of Antoine Solari shop in 1900, drawn by the French architect Raymond C. Péré

The guests of the wedding of Daisy Edith La Fontaine (1882-1982) and Charles Ernest Goad (1877-1950) on 15th September 1905, just after the ceremony at St. Mary Magdalene Church pose in front of the La Fontaine house in Bournabat, Smyrna.

A ceremony from the 1910s at the Saint Hélène church (Karşıyaka, Bir Aşkın Hikayesi - Yaşar Aksoy)

Julia Missir (centre) at the Races at Paradise hippodrome, Smyrna.

Young Edward de Jongh with his mother, Phyllis nee Peacock (1891-1964) taken in 1916, displaying her then fashionable and pricey hat with rare bird feathers (egret?) which she was very proud of.

Ms Ida de Haas of Smyrna 1902, of whom we know nothing, but possibly from the city’s Dutch Levantine community, sporting a bonnet.

Members of the Weber family in a garden in Boudja, Smyrna.

The hat shop of Cesare Desii with Regina and Elide Desii (C. D. collection)

Cesare ve Regina Desii on Grande Rue de Pera in front of Galatasaray Lycee, Istanbul (C. D. collection) - information and additional images courtesy of Fabio Tito.