“The Swedish Palace in Istanbul” --
a potpourri of Swedish-Turkish relations
Have you ever seen the Viking graffiti inscriptions in St. Sophia? Have
you read a book in a western language that described the Ottoman Turkish
government? The author or authors will have based their information on
a work by a Swedish diplomat. Did you know that for five years a king
of Sweden governed his nation from Bender, a town in today's Moldova but
back then within the bounds of the Ottoman Empire? Has anyone told you
that for centuries Turkish-Swedish relations were affected by the money
this king borrowed and couldn't repay?
Then read on and especially read “The Swedish Palace in Istanbul”. When
its author, Swedish Consul General Sture Theolin, was asked by the Turkish
Daily News why he wrote the book, he said that he “saw a need to present
to both the Swedish and Turkish reader the richness and length of the
amazing saga of our bilateral relations. Of course living in the palace,
many visitors asked questions. I tried to explain and then I planned to
write a small brochure. It rapidly grew into this book that I have written.
But it is really the wealth and the depth of our bilateral relations over
the centuries which I found interesting to present in this way”.
“The Swedish Palace in Istanbul” is a whirlwind tour in English and in
Turkish through Sweden’s unusual but generally speaking always improving
relations with Turkey whether it was the Ottoman Empire or today’s republic.
It is lavishly illustrated with color photographs of paintings of kings
and documents, ambassadors and the palace itself.
Subjects covered range from the Vikings who made their mark in Constantinople
under the Byzantines to the diplomats of today, from the first efforts
to encourage trade between two countries quite far apart to the importance
of Sweden's being the term president of the European Union this year.
That importance is signaled in the preface remarks written by Swedish
Foreign Affairs Minister Anna Lindh in which she indicates that Sweden
is determined to maintain a strong presence in Turkey and Istanbul. Theolin
in speaking with the TDN noted that they are expecting to dramatically
strengthen their presence in Istanbul from April 1 “with more and better
qualified staff and resources for dialogue and exchange of experiences
between more strata of Turkish society and Sweden”. He expects that, following
the recommendations to be made by a senior Swedish politician this past
week, the possibilities for outreach activities will be strengthened in
order to stimulate bilateral relations and speed up Turkish rapprochement
to the European Union.
Returning to the beginning
The Vikings came as traders, as raiders and finally as soldiers of fortune
to Constantinople, the center of the Byzantine Empire. There are references
in histories and runic inscription telling of travels to the east and
south. They became the elite Scandinavian contingent in the emperor's
service and fought the Turks at the battle of Malazgirt in 1071 -- the
latter won. But somewhere along the line a Viking on guard in the women’s
gallery of St. Sophia thought he should carve his name into the marble
balustrade. There are other runic inscriptions but only this one can still
be read. His name, you ask, was what? Halvdan.
Relations progressed apace until the beginning of the 18th century when
they took a dramatic turn. Swedish King Karl achieved extraordinary success
on the battlefield during the first eight years of the Great Nordic War
(1700-1721) but when his march on Moscow ended in defeat in 1709. With
no way to return to Sweden except through enemy territory, he went south
to the Ottoman Empire relying on the fact that the two had a common enemy,
Tsar Peter of Russia. From July 1709 to October 1714, King Karl camped
at Bender, by the Dniestr near the Black Sea, present day Moldova. He
was a welcome guest at first, although as the balances of power changed
in Europe and his constant financial charges on the Ottoman government
increased, it seems that the latter was pleased to see him go.
In the meantime however, the king’s stay marked the beginning of a permanent
Swedish mission in Constantinople. He wanted an alliance with the Turks
against the Russians and he needed a subsidy from the Sultan to support
his expensive court in Bender. One proposal was for an increase in commercial
relations and trade. A legation was established in Constantinople a house
rented in Pera, what is today known as Beyoglu. But right to the end of
his stay, the king continued to borrow money through his representatives
for whatever amount at whatever price. It was a burden that took decades
to settle even as Sweden was constantly asking for Ottoman subsidies for
what it considered its mutual fight against Russia.
Buying a palace
One consequence of these varied and sundry negotiations led to the establishment
of a permanent legation in and the purchase of the “Swedish palace” in
Constantinople in 1757. This is the oldest Swedish state property abroad
and the first Swedish embassy built on Swedish-owned property. The latter
was purchased by Gustaf Celsing, a leading member of a diplomatic family
that dominated Turkish-Swedish relations for some 35 years (1753-1788).
What was significant about the purchase was that the property was closer
to Topkapi Palace than the embassy buildings of any other western power.
“This is a prime location, closer than the others and you find the Russians,
French and Italians moving progressively further away”, comments Theolin.
It became an object of envy despite the buildings being rather modest.
The originally building is thought to have been built in 1704 but this
burned down in 1818 in one of the many devastating fires that struck Istanbul.
It had previously been damaged in the fires of 1787, 1808 and 1811. The
ambassadors and family from then were housed in what is described as the
kiosk on the grounds until 1869 when a decision was taken to rebuild the
palace. It was completed in 1870 and was inaugurated with a glittering
ball that was even reported in the European popular press.
The building's plan is nearly square since the site really cannot take
anything else. The facades are in discreet Italianate late renaissance
style. “Former Consul General Kaj Falkman writes in Turkiet/Gransfursten
that the building’s secret is its singular combination of elegance and
cosiness that makes everyone comfortable and at home. The house is big
enough to serve as a dignified residence for official entertainment, and
at the same time small enough to be homely”.
Turning to today
The book points out that today other buildings on the grounds house the
Swedish Research Institute and a chapel. The Research Institute is to
be found in the Dragoman House, situated in the palace’s park. The building
took its name from the dragomans who served the Ottoman court for centuries
as interpreters. Among these were a number of Swedish dragomans. The scope
of activities conducted by the institute concentrate on Turkey and the
Near East and cover a wide range of subjects from classical archaeology
and linguistics to sociology, political science and international relations.
Business relations, a businessman will tell you, can always be better
but Sweden is not doing too badly. Seventy-two Swedish companies are operating
in Turkey and more than 350 small and medium-sized companies are represented
through agents or distributors. Relations go all the way back to the establishment
of the Swedish Oriental Company in 1731. Today the Swedish Trade Council
and the Swedish Chamber of Commerce are active in Istanbul, encouraging
Swedish and Turkish businessmen to explore the possibilities in each other's
countries and in third countries.
The traffic is more than one way as another chapter in the book points
out. Turkish businessmen and workers, Syriacs and Kurds and Armenians
have immigrated to Sweden. At the end of 1999, it was established that
there were around 50,000 persons with Turkish citizenship in Sweden and
probably 120,000 persons of Turkish origin. There are politicians like
Nalin Pekgül, documentary film makers such as Barbro and Güneş
Karabuda, photographer Lufti Özkok, authors like Demir Özlü
and Mehmet Uzun and singer Dilba Demirbağ to name just a few.
Returning to Istanbul, Theolin says about the city and residing in the
Swedish palace, “It is really a pleasure living and working here. I don’t
have to bother with the traffic that is of course difficult because this
[Istanbul] is a historical place and the Bosporus makes communications
difficult”. As for traffic, the metro station under construction at Şişhane
has had a rather negative effect on the traffic problem in the area but
Theolin is aware that this is temporary and will disappear once the station
is completed.
Asked about what annoys him Theolin replies, “What I find sad is that
so many monuments and so many historical places needed and still need
really serious maintenance and many areas are spoiled by inconsiderate
construction of new and architecturally modern buildings. This is gradually
changing the appearance of Istanbul in a way that’s not very positive”.
It’s not unusual to find a diplomat engaged in writing books. Theolin
in that regard is no exception. Last year he wrote “a military-political
study, an advanced study on the security conditions of the first independence
of the Baltic states after the First World War. This book is now being
translated into the Baltic languages. This year I will participate in
a book on Hasankeyf that will likely appear in February and is being done
in cooperation with the Historical Foundation. I am also participating
in a book of the watercolors with Istanbul motifs by Lowenhielm, the Swedish
ambassador in the 1800s. We are also planning a book, a monograph about
Ignatius Mouradgea d’Ohsson who was the Swedish ambassador at the end
of the 1700s and wrote the very important ‘Tableau general de l’Empire
Othoman’. These are some of the projects we have in the near future”.
“The Swedish Palace in Istanbul” is 212 pages in length with the text
in English and Turkish. Printed on good quality paper, readers will find
at the end a series of appendices that include biographies of important
Swedish actors over the centuries, lists of Turkish and Swedish diplomatic
appointees and a bibliography.
The book was commissioned by the Swedish giant Ericsson in a limited edition
numbering 2500 for friends, employees, staff and customers all over Turkey
and elsewhere. In recent days it has been released commercially by Yapı
Kredi Bank which maintains an important publishing program contributing
to the fields of history, art and architecture to mention just a few areas.
source: Istanbul - Turkish Daily News 28 January, 2001, Turkish Probe
issue 419
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